1996 Dodge NEON Electrical issue URGENT

I think this problem is my fault, this is exctly the way it hapened and what it does now.

I was setting up Xmas lights and needed to back my sisters car up a bit to give some space to a ladder. I didn't Start it I only put the key into ON mode but did not engage the starter at all, I put the gear into DRIVE and let go of the brakes, once I had backed up enough I pushed the brakes hard because the car was NOT on. I sort of turned the key to START IT but it didn't even try I then put it into park removed the key and tried to start the car back again No power to head lights, stereo, starter, I get some power to the blinking red light (FAKE ALARM) but as soon as I open the head lights who do not work it fades allot. I know the gages work for both GAS AND TEMP, other than that there is only a huming sound coming from behind the fuse breakers, when I close the door it stops hums differently stops starts again for a 2nd time then stops ocmpletely until I open the door where there is a countinuous humm, i notised I can turn the hum off by puting the headlight thing to the complete left where not even the light (indoor) can open, then the hummign stops. What is causing this??? I had 1 burnt out fuse replaced it but nothing changed it was the FIRST ONE, the replased fuse still works it didn't burn out.

I know I must of done somthing wrong or there something that went wrong at around the time I was in the car. I can use repair tips ASAP or at least tell me what's wrong with it. She has an EXAM!!! TOMORROW MORning!!! I need HELP FAST!!

In another way easyer to explain it hums as soon as any light tries to open and as soon as I try to start the car it stops, im guessing there a problem with something behind the fuse box HIDDEN I can hear it shake a bit. PLEASE HELP ME FAST... The worst thing is my mom's van she could of taken has an apointment with the mecanic it has only 5 out of 6 cylenders working the spark plug for one of them has gone bad. If there is a quick fix tell me and after her exam she can go to the mecanic and fix it good. THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR ALL YOUR HELP!! Dead battery. Get a jump start, then drive to a shop that sells batteries and also have the charging system tested. if 'stevefl' suggestion does not work, whish is most likely what your problem is. I would look for a valet switch assciated with the alarm for the vehicle, and hust the valet switch for a reset. i have seen something very close to what you described but not identical. that is why i said try stevefl suggestion first. take care and happy holidays I am going to go with steve on this 1. As soon as he started talking about fake alarm, and low chime, i knew it was dead battery. Kauty wrote:whish is most likely


Hey Sam. Been in the holiday spirits early?

hey tom,
I guess, i need to look at what I type and stop thinking about santa.

BTW "and hust the valet switch for a reset" was suppose to be "and push the valet switch for a reset".
 

OKay It was able to start but with about 1.5 hours of boosting from our mini van, BUT this is odd and I am looking for an explanation, yesterday when I actually put the key to the on position without starting the car up (didn't press enough for the starter to engage) the radio went on fine every thing was working, after I started the car while it was on drive only for a second the car had NO POWER AT ALL, other than the fake alarm, which would dim if I opened the door or try to start the car. HOW COULD THIS HAVE HAPENED AL IN ONE SHOT? I had 1 fuse which was burnt out but it was porbably burnt out long ago (cigarette lighter) but there is none any moreto plug into, and we never tried it. I replaced the fuse later today and checked if that lighter was pulling any power, all was okay. I want to know if it is even possible to DRAIN a battery in about 2 seconds? This car had issues with the battery before we bought this car less than 6 months ago, it had a short in it, we brought it back to the garage and they said they put a NEW ONE IN, I look at the label and it looks very birty as if it's a used battery. But to look at all the battery is too much trouble, there is a cover on it, and to remove it I would need to completely disconect the battery. If you can give me any explanations please do, my sister really needs to know ASAP if that battery is not good.

ALL DAY I TRIED TO START IT WhiLE BOOSTIng The lights would go on indicating there was more power than before the boost (before the boost the batery had 0 charge not even enough to put a small light on.) The starter would SRSRSRSRRRRR so I would stop and wait another 15 minutes before trying again, odd thing is when I was able to start it i had just played with the DEFROST, and the heating system to remove some fog even if car was not on. after that it hesitated, the BOOST was not even strong enough after 1.5 hours to give the car a good start, it hummed and hummed for 4 seconds before starting. Is this my fault at all? or bad timing for Xmas lights?

In case my FAKE ALARM THING is not working where would that reset button be located?

Thank you so much!! My sister took the mini van to schoo;l for her exam even thow it had only 5 cylinders working, she came back in time for the apointment at the garage, (to fix that spark plug) and I was able to finally boost her car. After the car boosted 5 minutes i turned it off and tried to start it on again it hesitated but did start, I turned it imidiately off, and realised I needed to charge the battery a bit, so I turned it back on, it didn't even hesitate why after waiting did the battery becore mroe powerfull, It wasn't geting boosted at that time...

Thanks again

Thank you so much for all your help,

Marc-o Either i am misunderstanding you or got me confused

First and foremost, "about 1.5 hours of boosting from our mini van", you could have jump started the neon from the mini van if they were both on.


you know how the first key turn, turns on everything but the starter (acc position), that turns on everything and the second key turn engages the starter and disengagges everything else becuase the starter needs every bit of power, therefore everything else is internal temprarly disconnected until you take your hand off the key. that is normal in all call (99.9%).

You can get your batter and charging system check free at autozone.

Valet switch which i mentioned earlier, is something i have seen in a toyota avalone 96. the car did not start at all and had all the symotoms of a bad starter, except the starter was fine when skywired from the battery, and the hazard light came on everytime the door was opened. the problem was the valet switch of the alarm box loacted under the steering wheel and the switch itself could be accessed from the inside fuse box. But obviously that was not you problem so trash this paragraph i am not sure if you car has one.

FYI: when the car runs it automatically charges the battery

i hope that helps you, take care Sounds like a bad battery connection to me. Disconnect an clean your terminals!