Hi,
I've got an '83 F-250 6.9L V8 diesel. When I start the truck it's easy to shift at first, but as it warms up it gets much harder to get it into and out of gear. I mash the clutch pedal all the way to the floorboard, and often it does not come back up on it's own. It's been like that since I've had the truck.
I've tried replacing the slave cylinder, but it's doing the same thing. However, I wasn't able to bleed the cylinder like normal. I followed the directions that came with it, but whenever I pumped the pedal a bunch of times and held it down with a stick then opened the bleed valve nothing came out, no air, no brake fluid, nothing. I manually pushed the rod in and out maybe 20-30 times and could hear the fluid up in the reservoir so I hope got the air out like that. The clutch is behaving exactly as it did before.
Thank you so much you for your time and wisdom oh gracious mechanic gurus of the internet. taow80; This transmission has an external slave cylinder, correct? Try bleeding the master cylinder, first. (I'm assuming that you have replaced or ruled out the master as being the problem). Then, after you are certain there is no air in the master, connect the line going to the slave. Some slaves are tough to bleed because of the location of the bleeder valve. I've had to unbolt them from the trans and hold them upright so that the bleeder is at the highest point. At this point, with the bleeder valve held high, you should be able to open the valve and allow it to gravity bleed. With all of this said....If the master cylinder is not fairly new, pull back the rubber boot on the inside of the firewall and check for moisture (fluid leaking out of the back of the master cylinder). Just like a brake master cylinder, it is fairly easy to rupture the cup on the piston if the travel has gone beyond it's normal limit. Happens when 'foot' bleeding. The debris, over years, will build up beyond that normal travel limit and tear the rubber cup on the piston. One time, you'll have a good pedal, the next time, poor pedal. If the resistance in the pedal always feels the same, you may have a mechanical problem. The bearing retainer on the output shaft of the transmission could be worn so that the throw-out bearing hangs up. That doesn't sound like the problem you are having, but.... Good luck.
Loren
SW Washington
Car Repair | Car Diagnosis | Brake Repair | Transmission Repair | Trouble codes | car repair problems | auto insurance question | Car Logos Pictures |
I've got an '83 F-250 6.9L V8 diesel. When I start the truck it's easy to shift at first, but as it warms up it gets much harder to get it into and out of gear. I mash the clutch pedal all the way to the floorboard, and often it does not come back up on it's own. It's been like that since I've had the truck.
I've tried replacing the slave cylinder, but it's doing the same thing. However, I wasn't able to bleed the cylinder like normal. I followed the directions that came with it, but whenever I pumped the pedal a bunch of times and held it down with a stick then opened the bleed valve nothing came out, no air, no brake fluid, nothing. I manually pushed the rod in and out maybe 20-30 times and could hear the fluid up in the reservoir so I hope got the air out like that. The clutch is behaving exactly as it did before.
Thank you so much you for your time and wisdom oh gracious mechanic gurus of the internet. taow80; This transmission has an external slave cylinder, correct? Try bleeding the master cylinder, first. (I'm assuming that you have replaced or ruled out the master as being the problem). Then, after you are certain there is no air in the master, connect the line going to the slave. Some slaves are tough to bleed because of the location of the bleeder valve. I've had to unbolt them from the trans and hold them upright so that the bleeder is at the highest point. At this point, with the bleeder valve held high, you should be able to open the valve and allow it to gravity bleed. With all of this said....If the master cylinder is not fairly new, pull back the rubber boot on the inside of the firewall and check for moisture (fluid leaking out of the back of the master cylinder). Just like a brake master cylinder, it is fairly easy to rupture the cup on the piston if the travel has gone beyond it's normal limit. Happens when 'foot' bleeding. The debris, over years, will build up beyond that normal travel limit and tear the rubber cup on the piston. One time, you'll have a good pedal, the next time, poor pedal. If the resistance in the pedal always feels the same, you may have a mechanical problem. The bearing retainer on the output shaft of the transmission could be worn so that the throw-out bearing hangs up. That doesn't sound like the problem you are having, but.... Good luck.
Loren
SW Washington
Car Repair | Car Diagnosis | Brake Repair | Transmission Repair | Trouble codes | car repair problems | auto insurance question | Car Logos Pictures |
Pre:
transmission rebuilt but still having problems need advice Next:1994 Ford Mustang Transmission issue
'91 Dodge W150 4WD A/T A518 Fluid Pump
94 Nissan Altima slow to engage in reverse
92 geo metro clutch bearing removal help
Jeep Grand Cherokee Transmission Lockup
Major wear outer front tires, 95 Pont. Transport
1998 Dodge Dakota Transmission Problems
97 Cavalier transmission problems
95 Pontiac Firebird auto trouble shifting from park
2001 honda accord confused
97 Taurus wont go over 35 mph
how to pull the drive shaft out of the transfer case
Transmission replacement? 94 Isuzu Rodeo
1991 GMC Safari Auto Trans chatter
1994 chevy fullsize blazer-hard shifting when hot
1995 chevy 2500 shift computer ground wire
1996 Cherokee sport transmission pan stuck
95 Pontiac Transport, engine knock - Oil pump or engine shot
2001 Dodge Stratus RT Shift Solenoids
01 Mercury Cougar Transmission Problems
1992 Ford Escort stuck in park
1978 Dodge Aspen sluggish acceleration in drive
99 Dodge Ram Transmission Problems
1994 Ford Escort Wagon Transmission problems
Clutch - Transmission Problems