I have a 96 Taurus GL. This car runs constantly in the cold range of the temperature gauge. I drive 1-hour one way to work and by the time I am 15 minutes from work, it's finally warming up inside. The temp gauge rises above the cold mark, and then all of a sudden falls back into the cold mark. I have replaced the thermostat, the coolant, and radiator cap. I still can't get this thing to warm up. It's not just the heater, it's the fact the engine never warms up into the operating range.
I spent $96 to replace the thermostat and $60 to flush and fill the radiator and now I have no heat!!! It's 9 degrees outside today.
HELP!!! 9 degrees would really slow down a car warming up.... get up early one morning drive around town for an extra hour gooing to mcdonalds for breakfest ect... and see if it ever warms up....
you should be getting heat not long after 15-20 mins or sooner but thats at 30F temp.....
do you get heat after the day warms up on your drive home from work? Hi,
A couple more things to check out would be..
1) Heater Control Valve.. Sometimes they get stuck shut which would prevent the flow of heat and anytime any part of the entire cooling system isn't working properly you can experience overheating or overcooling. All parts work in sync with each other. The valve should be located near your pass side firewall. A hose about 3" in diameter will connect on each side of the valve, valve is approx 3-5" long and is tubular. There should be a lever that you can move manually to see if operating back and forth. (To open and close). You can also check for vacume leaks on the vacume unit next to valve (small hose going in valve which is a metal circular shape) for vacume pressure which operates the heater valve. Disconnect the vacume line at valve and while operating the heater control check for vacume at the hose. If vacume is present then check the valve for vacume. You should have vacume to be operating correctly.
2) The other items would be "Coolant Temp Sending Unit" and Coolant Temp Sensor". Usually located in the front of the "Intake Manifold". They are screw in items with electrical connections coming out the top. They should be checked for current and that are working properly if current is there. I can't really direct on a self inspection. I have usually had mechanic check them out.
Any of the above items can cause you to overheat, overcool and not receive heat.
PLEASE be sure that engine is totally COOL before attempting to disconnect anything.
Best Of Luck and keep us posted,.
Tom K Hi Bryan:
"Tom" Car Repair Talk's forum.
I spent $96 to replace the thermostat and $60 to flush and fill the radiator and now I have no heat!!! It's 9 degrees outside today.
HELP!!! 9 degrees would really slow down a car warming up.... get up early one morning drive around town for an extra hour gooing to mcdonalds for breakfest ect... and see if it ever warms up....
you should be getting heat not long after 15-20 mins or sooner but thats at 30F temp.....
do you get heat after the day warms up on your drive home from work? Hi,
A couple more things to check out would be..
1) Heater Control Valve.. Sometimes they get stuck shut which would prevent the flow of heat and anytime any part of the entire cooling system isn't working properly you can experience overheating or overcooling. All parts work in sync with each other. The valve should be located near your pass side firewall. A hose about 3" in diameter will connect on each side of the valve, valve is approx 3-5" long and is tubular. There should be a lever that you can move manually to see if operating back and forth. (To open and close). You can also check for vacume leaks on the vacume unit next to valve (small hose going in valve which is a metal circular shape) for vacume pressure which operates the heater valve. Disconnect the vacume line at valve and while operating the heater control check for vacume at the hose. If vacume is present then check the valve for vacume. You should have vacume to be operating correctly.
2) The other items would be "Coolant Temp Sending Unit" and Coolant Temp Sensor". Usually located in the front of the "Intake Manifold". They are screw in items with electrical connections coming out the top. They should be checked for current and that are working properly if current is there. I can't really direct on a self inspection. I have usually had mechanic check them out.
Any of the above items can cause you to overheat, overcool and not receive heat.
PLEASE be sure that engine is totally COOL before attempting to disconnect anything.
Best Of Luck and keep us posted,.
Tom K Hi Bryan:
"Tom" Car Repair Talk's forum.
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