Noticed sudsy oil, from moisture. So I changes my head gaskets, and torqued the heads all right. Then, new intake manifold gasket. But now I pull off a valve cover, and see coolant in the rockets. Apparently I didnt do a quality job on the intake manifold gaskets somewhere? Ive put on about a hundred miles since the rebuild.
looks like a gasket may have an anomaly; probably head gasket.
Did you make sure that the heads were not cracked?
As best as I could, yea.
I had that problem with my 95 s-10 v6 4.3 vortec engine, it's cracked heads. I got two that's cracked.
Is there a common place they like to crack? Where did yours crack?
Whats a good way I can keep an eye on this? Just pulling the valve covers? Mine cracked on top of the heads, not sure if that's common or not. The reason why I had checked was the truck wouldn't start and I had put a new head gasket and head bolts in only to find out I have 2 cracked heads. Magnafluxing
I've heard they like to crack around valve seats. Cracks can also occur in the block around water jackets or cylinder walls. Anything is possible. Hopefully it is just an intake manifold gasket leak. You should call your local machine shop, they might have a lot information. Like I said, I didnt notice any cracks when I was scraping the heads for the new gaskets. Just yesterday I finished a second new intake manifold gasket. The 1st new one(the one I doubted) looked just fine.
I guess the next question for you guys, is whats your advice?
Its my only vehicle, aside from public transit. Im tight on money, and can only work about 3 hours a night due to light and temp. Theres a couple different ways that I see that I can handle it.. I can either:
A) Strip it, magnaflux the heads(from $150 ea), hope that's the problem, replace them, rebuild, and move on with my life,
B) Drive it into the ground. Get as long out of it as I can, using thicker oil and watching my engine temp constantly. Get a replacement motor(~$4-600) when it comes to be that time
C) Ideas?
Its going to have to be fixed or replaced, and its going to cost money for parts and labor if I dont do it myself. How long have you guys heard of something like this lasting? I think ima throw some diesel 15w-30 in tomorrow... The problem is the coolant being in the crankcase. The coolant will destroy the engine bearings if it hasn't already started. Can't tell you how long you can go like that till you start hearing knocking noises. It really depends on what you decide.
I'd choose B. You might be able to drive it long enough to save up some money for a reman long block with a warranty. Might be able to pick up one for around $1200 with core or if you get lucky find a low mileage on from a salvage yard. I'd save up for the reman because you never know, you might end up with the same issue with a salvage yard unit. That way you can start off with a fresh reconditioned engine and not have to worry about spending money on heads and finding out the bearings are shot. I think that's the smarter way to go too, for many reasons..
Car Repair Talk's forum.
Whats a good way I can keep an eye on this? Just pulling the valve covers? Mine cracked on top of the heads, not sure if that's common or not. The reason why I had checked was the truck wouldn't start and I had put a new head gasket and head bolts in only to find out I have 2 cracked heads. Magnafluxing
I've heard they like to crack around valve seats. Cracks can also occur in the block around water jackets or cylinder walls. Anything is possible. Hopefully it is just an intake manifold gasket leak. You should call your local machine shop, they might have a lot information. Like I said, I didnt notice any cracks when I was scraping the heads for the new gaskets. Just yesterday I finished a second new intake manifold gasket. The 1st new one(the one I doubted) looked just fine.
I guess the next question for you guys, is whats your advice?
Its my only vehicle, aside from public transit. Im tight on money, and can only work about 3 hours a night due to light and temp. Theres a couple different ways that I see that I can handle it.. I can either:
A) Strip it, magnaflux the heads(from $150 ea), hope that's the problem, replace them, rebuild, and move on with my life,
B) Drive it into the ground. Get as long out of it as I can, using thicker oil and watching my engine temp constantly. Get a replacement motor(~$4-600) when it comes to be that time
C) Ideas?
Its going to have to be fixed or replaced, and its going to cost money for parts and labor if I dont do it myself. How long have you guys heard of something like this lasting? I think ima throw some diesel 15w-30 in tomorrow... The problem is the coolant being in the crankcase. The coolant will destroy the engine bearings if it hasn't already started. Can't tell you how long you can go like that till you start hearing knocking noises. It really depends on what you decide.
I'd choose B. You might be able to drive it long enough to save up some money for a reman long block with a warranty. Might be able to pick up one for around $1200 with core or if you get lucky find a low mileage on from a salvage yard. I'd save up for the reman because you never know, you might end up with the same issue with a salvage yard unit. That way you can start off with a fresh reconditioned engine and not have to worry about spending money on heads and finding out the bearings are shot. I think that's the smarter way to go too, for many reasons..
Car Repair Talk's forum.
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